[Field-Homework 3] Disappearing City: Tradditonal Bakeries

Video Essay Link: https://youtu.be/FSxzPgGSrV0

Introduction: 

Many of Hong Kong’s cultural experiences and gems, once staples, now remain as a few traditional spots and pockets of culture. These irreplaceable third places include dai pai dongs, neon lights, cafes, and most notably local bakeries. In the past decade, these mom-and-pop shops have gone away, leaving behind the local culture and countless networks of friendships spanning generations that revolved their lives around it. In other words, losing these local bakeries is more important than losing tangible neon signs and historical buildings because it will leave Hong Kong bare of cultural heritage.
In August 2022, locals visited Happy Cake Shop in Wan Chai one last time before it permanently closed for their famous cream cone. No one in the neighborhood expects there will be another cream cone as it is disappearing along with red bean buns and coconut biscuits. The disappearance of local bakery goods and stores is also the disappearance of many local childhood treats in favor of trendy modern chain bakeries. These new-age bakeries often priced locals out and many communities will run out of independent bakeries/unique delicacies that are uniquely Hong Kong.


For instance, the Happy Cake Shop in Wan Chai was the latest to close in 2022, part of the trend where neighboring businesses are replaced by chain stores, becoming sanitized commercial districts. For almost 5 decades, Happy Cake Shop reflected tight economic conditions in Hong Kong with many struggling to keep up with rent against financially stronger chain stores as small businesses attempted to keep their head above water. Aside from the tangible aspects and numbers, the unquantifiable aspects also disappeared with it. The magnitude of the bonds and loyalty where traditional bakeries served to provide a dose of happiness for decades whether it is catching up with old friends, grabbing a treat after school, or grabbing a bun on the go. Therefore, I decided to capture the authenticity of the remaining traditional bakeries in the Yau Ma Tei and Mong Kok area because the majority have perished on Hong Kong Island or retreated to New Territories. The bakeries covered are Red Bean, Ming Wah, Kee Tsui, Yolanda, and Kee Wah to contrast with Arome, a new player in town.

Methodology & Techniques


My methodology behind the video essay reflects my early childhood experiences growing up in Boston’s historical Chinatown, brimming with traditional Chinese bakeries. I wanted to reflect on these experiences from my point of view in a raw vlog-style video and further expand my memories from the perspective of a local Hong Kong boy growing up around these bakeries. The style is unscripted other than drawing ideas on what angles and shots to utilize because I wanted to show the authenticity of everyday interactions of loyal patrons. In other words, I captured the childhood memories with the first scene, captivated by a front window display of traditional Chinese-style birthday cakes. I purposely positioned the camera angle at the child’s eye level to capture what they see first hand to remain authentic. This is followed by them in the next scene entering the store overwhelmed by such varieties and the towering pastries. Instead, the child could only tap at the display case to point to what they wanted out of shyness before walking in and finally deciding on a purchase. Afterward, I met paths with an older lady and enjoyed her humor and politeness. I did have to admit that Cantonese is not my native tongue. Still, nonetheless, I have attempted my best to salvage what I had learned in the last 4 months of classes to make the interaction even more wholesome when speaking their language.


In the next successive scenes, I incorporated subtle layers to show the child is no longer captivated by alluring display cakes but has reached puberty. The main character’s point of view is also no longer at knee level but instead at eye level. The narrator confidently grabs a tray to grab two buns, a deviation from the sweeter offering in the past scenes, demonstrating maturity for more sophisticated offerings. Then, they proceed to the cashier lady who insists on buying three for better value for the money, but the narrator refuses out of conscience for food waste. This scene is unscripted; otherwise, it would feel like an inorganic part of the experience. Afterward, the narrator goes back home on the MTR. The MTR is another intricate layer representing the social economic standing of an average child born to a hardworking blue-collar family. At the same time, the last scene with the trains represents how fast time can pass, in the blink of an eye. From there, it is forward to a new bakery glowing with almost perfect fruits where one can say it is even derived from the forbidden fruit Eve and Adam enjoyed. In fact, this is foreign for the narrator who is taking his time, glancing around, joined by staff encouraging them to take their time to look around. While looking around, the shop lacked the bustling energies and interactions of friendly aunties and uncles gossiping. Instead, it felt commercially mass-produced lacking the love and character put into traditional red bean buns, but instead an emphasis on the image of perfect cakes and breads. The scene ends with the narrator making a purchase and leaving with many thoughts of fleeting nostalgic memories and enjoying something entirely foreign.

References

Cheung, Catharina, and Time Out Hong Kong. “12 Disappearing Hong Kong Cultural Experiences.” Time Out Hong Kong, Time Out, 26 Apr. 2024, www.timeout.com/hong-kong/attractions/disappearing-hong-kong-cultural-experiences.


“Opinion: Old Hong Kong Bakeries Are Dying – Go to One While You Still Can.” South China Morning Post, 30 July 2022, www.scmp.com/lifestyle/food-drink/article/3187029/old-hong-kong-bakeries-are-dying-go-while-you-still-can-buy.


Ho, Kelly. “As Hong Kong’s Old Shops Shutter, Enthusiasts Seek to Preserve Their Presence – Online and Offline.” Hong Kong Free Press HKFP, 18 Jan. 2023, hongkongfp.com/2022/12/17/as-hong-kongs-old-shops-shutter-enthusiasts-seek-to-preserve-their-presence-online-and-offline/.


Farmer, Hugh. “Demise of the 79 Year Old Neon Lights of Tai Tung Bakery, Yuen Long, Hong Kong.” The Industrial History of Hong Kong Group, 19 Sept. 2022, industrialhistoryhk.org/demise-of-the-neon-lights-of-tai-tung-bakery-yuen-long-hong-kong/.


“Cafes and Coffee Shops Archives.” Little Steps, www.littlestepsasia.com/hong-kong/dine/cafes-and-coffee-shops/. Accessed 11 May 2024.


“Fading Glory: The Fight to Save Hong Kong’s Beloved Neon Signs.” The Guardian, Guardian News and Media, 8 Apr. 2023, www.theguardian.com/world/2023/apr/08/fading-glory-the-fight-to-save-hong-kongs-beloved-neon-signs.


Macau, Michelin Guide Digital-Hong Kong. “Cantonese Pastries & Cakes: Michelin-Starred Chinese Chefs’ Sweet Childhood Memories.” MICHELIN Guide, MICHELIN Guide, 13 Sept. 2022, guide.michelin.com/hk/en/article/features/michelin-cantonese-dimsum-pastry-tea.


“Hong Kong’s Iconic Cantonese Cafe Culture Is Gradually Fading Out.” South China Morning Post, 28 June 2017, www.scmp.com/news/hong-kong/economy/article/2098134/hong-kong-losing-taste-traditional-trades-city-embraces-new.


Dimsumdaily Hong Kong, et al. “Dominique Ansel’s Iconic Bakery, Dang Wen Li, to Close Its Doors in Hong Kong at End of January.” Dimsum Daily, 8 Jan. 2024, www.dimsumdaily.hk/dominique-ansels-iconic-bakery-dang-wen-li-to-close-its-doors-in-hong-kong-at-end-of-january/.


“Old School Bakery in Hong Kong, Ming Wah 明華餅家.” LUCY LOVES TO EAT, www.lucylovestoeat.com/2015/07/old-school-bakery-in-hong-kong-ming-wah_31.html. Accessed 11 May 2024.
“Arome Bakery.” LINK, www.linkhk.com/en/dine/31895. Accessed 11 May 2024.

Name: Kevin Shi

UID: U36275455

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